BidCraftTILE

How to write a tile proposal that wins without being the cheapest bid

Win tile jobs on clarity, not price: what to put in your proposal, how detailed to get, and how to answer a homeowner who says the other guy was cheaper.

Andy MorrisonProposals6 min read

I've spent three years working only with tile and bath contractors, mostly on their marketing. That means I've watched a lot of bids go out, and I've seen which ones get signed and which ones die quietly in an inbox. The pattern is boring and consistent: the proposals that win make the homeowner feel safe. The ones that lose make them guess.

Here's how to write the first kind.

Why doesn't the cheapest tile bid always win?

Because the homeowner isn't really buying tile. They're buying the confidence that the job will get done right, on time, without a fight halfway through.

A cheap bid that's vague puts the risk on them. "Retile shower, $6,800" leaves a hundred questions open. Is demo in there? Who buys the tile? What happens if there's damage behind the wall? What if they want a niche? A homeowner who has been burned before, or whose neighbor has, reads that vagueness as a warning.

A clear bid at a higher number answers those questions before they're asked. It also tells the homeowner something about how you run a job. If your paperwork is organized, they assume your jobsite is too.

You don't have to be the cheapest. You have to be the easiest to say yes to.

What should a tile proposal include?

The winning proposals I've seen tend to cover the same ground, in roughly this order:

  1. A short scope summary. Two or three sentences in plain words: what room, what's coming out, what's going in.
  2. Line items grouped by room or area. Demo, prep, wall tile, floor, niche, trim, cleanup. Each one with a real description, not just a label.
  3. Material notes. The tile by name if it's chosen, or an allowance if it isn't. Who's buying it. Any trim or finishing pieces that change the look.
  4. Exclusions. What's not in this price, written plainly. More on this in what to put in the exclusions section.
  5. A payment schedule. Deposit, progress payments and final, with what triggers each one.
  6. A start window and rough duration. Homeowners plan their lives around a bathroom being out of service.
  7. Terms. How changes are handled, what happens with hidden conditions, warranty language if you offer one.
  8. An expiration date and a way to sign. A proposal that can be signed on a phone in two minutes gets signed. One that has to be printed, signed and scanned sits on the counter.

If you're missing any of these, that's where the homeowner will start comparing you on price, because price is the only thing left that's easy to compare. Some states also require specific wording in home improvement contracts, so have an attorney check your template.

How detailed should line items be?

Detailed enough that the homeowner can picture the work. Not so detailed that it reads like a parts list.

Compare these two lines:

Shower walls: $2,400

Shower walls, three walls to the ceiling. Set the 12x24 porcelain the client selected, with a niche on the back wall. Includes layout, cutting around the valve and shower head, and grouting. Tile supplied by client.

The second one costs you thirty seconds more to write and does three jobs. It shows you listened on the walkthrough. It tells the homeowner exactly what they're getting. And it gives you something to point at if the scope changes later.

A few habits that help:

  • Use the homeowner's words. If they called it "the guest bath," call it that.
  • Name the things they chose. If they picked a tile, a trim color or a niche location, say so on the line.
  • Put the exclusion next to the line it affects. "Glass enclosure by others" belongs on the shower line, not buried on page four.
  • Keep the trade jargon in check. Your homeowner doesn't need to know every layer of the assembly. They need to know what they'll see when you're done and what's covered.

Should you show a price on every line?

There's no single right answer, and good contractors land on both sides.

A price on every line shows your work. Some homeowners trust that. It also invites them to start crossing lines out, or to compare one line against another bid that bundled things differently.

One price per room, or one total, keeps the conversation on the whole job. The homeowner still sees every piece of work listed, just without a number on each. This tends to suit contractors who'd rather sell the finished bathroom than defend each line.

Pick one style and stick with it so your proposals look consistent. If a particular client is a spreadsheet person, you can always show them more.

How do you answer "the other guy was cheaper"?

Don't get defensive and don't drop your price on the spot. Ask to compare.

Something like: "Totally fair to shop around. Do you want to pull up both and go line by line? I want to make sure you're comparing the same job."

Then look for the usual gaps:

  • Demo and haul-away. Is it in their number?
  • Prep work. Did they price the parts nobody sees once it's tiled?
  • Materials. Are they including setting materials, trim and the tile, or just labor?
  • Hidden conditions. What happens in their bid if there's damage behind the wall?
  • Exclusions. Is there anything they left out that you included?

Often the cheaper bid turns out to be a smaller job. Once the homeowner sees that, the conversation changes. And if it really is the same job for less, you get to decide whether you want it at that price. That's a business decision, not a failure.

Should you discount to win?

Cut scope, not price.

If the homeowner's budget is lower than your number, give them a way down that doesn't mean you working for less. Offer a simpler version of the job, or make the niche, the bench or the upgraded trim an optional add-on they can leave out. They feel in control, and your rates stay your rates.

A discount you give once becomes the price you're known for.

Does speed matter as much as the proposal itself?

It matters a lot. A strong proposal can lose to a decent one that showed up three days earlier, because by then the homeowner may have already pictured working with the other contractor.

The walkthrough is when they're most interested. The closer your proposal lands to that moment, the better. I wrote more about this in how fast you should send a bid.

How BidCraft helps you write this kind of proposal

We built BidCraft around this exact proposal. You capture the job from your phone (photos, a walkthrough video, a voice note), and BidCraft turns it into a scope and then a priced proposal with real line descriptions, plus exclusions and material notes on the styles that show them. Your numbers price it: your day rate and your rates. When the AI's estimate and your number disagree, yours wins.

If something reads wrong, you can ask Biddy, the assistant built into the app, to edit the proposal in plain words. When it's right, send it for e-signature and see when the homeowner opens it.

You can try it on a real job with the 14-day free trial (card required) on the pricing page. Every plan includes the Growth Community too: the private chat inside the app and the Tuesday BidCraft call, where tile pros compare notes on exactly this stuff.

Questions people ask

Should a tile proposal show a price on every line?

It depends on how you sell. A price on every line shows your work, but invites line-by-line haggling. One price per room or a single total keeps the conversation on the job. Either way, list every piece of work so the homeowner can see what they're paying for.

How long should a bathroom remodel proposal be?

Long enough that a homeowner who wasn't at the walkthrough could understand the job. That usually means a short scope summary, line items grouped by room with plain descriptions, material notes, exclusions, a payment schedule and terms. Length isn't the goal. Leaving no questions is.

What do I say when a homeowner says another contractor was cheaper?

Ask to see the two bids side by side and walk through what each one includes and excludes. Most of the time the gap is in scope, materials or who handles the surprises. If it really is the same job for less, decide if you want it at that price, and don't apologize for yours.

Should I discount to win a bid?

Cut scope, not price. Offer a simpler option or an optional add-on the homeowner can leave out, so they can get to their budget without you working for less on the same job.